EXHIBITIONISTS

A busy time at the 2015 June long Weekend Model Railway Exhibition, Adelaide, South Australia

Allowing children to push a button and operate the trains a real winner

Putting on the mail bags for the TPO then watching it work is the star attraction

STUART B's array of INFO

Thanks to Stuart B for this diplay of his Dublo literature

I hadn't realised but there's lots to learn about Hornby Dublo from Meccano magazines too.

Ken B's layout with John I's help

ingenious

Just enclosing a few pics of Ken's new Dublo 3-Rail Layout which is nearing completion - construction took about 10 days in total (your's truly was entrusted with the track laying).  Basically, it was a "Suck it and See" approach, involving throwing some track, points and crossing around the "E" shaped baseboard until it looked presentable.  There is an interesting feature on the narrowest point which incorporates a Reverse Crossover, changing mainline trains from inside to outside tracks, as well as reversing direction of travel.  This provides a bit of entertainment, giving four circuits of the layout with a quick change of a handfull of points at the right time.

Ken seems well pleased with the result, so club members can look forward to a meeting possibly next year to view our efforts.  There will be an O-Gauge layout to follow soon - this will be set up in the Garage - the Dublo layout is upstairs above.  Readers Note:  Ken's Pride Cabinet has the majority of rare Dublo Locos, Coaches, Wagons, and of course, a Plastic Girder Bridge (not forgetting the Rail Cleaning Wagon!).

I recently managed to set up the purchase of a Princess Elizabeth from a past HRCAA Member, as the picture shows Ken pointing and saying - "Finally got one, eh?"

 Cheers, John     HRCAA #387

ROB H's RARE ITEMS OF INTEREST

GRAHAM H's COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION

Playing toy trains can be so complex - so much to choose from to make up a single train.

CAN YOU HELP?

Does anyone know of a Hornby OO garden Railway in Australia .. preferably in Victoria... ??

ASKS MICHAEL L
let me know and I will pass it on
I would think the track would corrode too much even with 2 rail

BILL M's MIGHTY LAYOUT

TANK WAGONS AND ARTICLATED COACH from John I

Here is a mock up of a prototype 3-car rake I spotted a photo of in a railway magazine some time back.  I used one of each of the Dublo LNER Teak Coaches - 1st/3rd - All 3rd - Brake 3rd, drilled out the bogies and joined them together using fine machine screws and nuts.  They look quite effective and I was pleased with the result - OK, they are not in top condition, but it sure is one good way to use some of your spare coaches, eh?  I am currently working on a set of Blood & Custard Gresley Coaches set up the same.

John C's Folkestone Harbour

COUPLING REPLACEMENT

Please tell me the trick in re riviting a replacement coupling in this case to the rear of the tender on my Bristol Castle. Do you need four hands? How do you hold the chassis, what do you put under the head of the rivet, what do you use to spread the rivet in the hole?
Is there a better way and where would you get a thin stepped bolt to use instead?
PS the engine is running great after a complete overhaul.

Greetings.
1. Choose the correct replacement coupling for the period of your item.
2. Choose the correct rivet for your coupling i.e. long or short shaft and shallow step for metal couplings  and deep step for plastic couplings.
3. Lock a suitable diameter short metal shaft upright in a vice.
4. Place the coupling on the rivet and position that assembly in the hole in the item making sure that the rivet is right home and the coupling can pivot freely.
    To help hold the assembly in place, put a spot of blu tac under the coupling shaft to temporarily secure it to your item.
5. Now comes the tricky bit, holding the item between your thumb and 3rd and 4th finger, place the assembly so that the head of the rivet is sitting on the end of the rod.
6. Now hold a point ended metal punch between your 1st and 2nd finger so that the point is resting on the end of the shaft of the rivet.
7. With your free hand strike the end of the punch with a hammer. The metal punch will spread the end of the shaft of the rivet locking it in place.
8. If you are dealing with a plastic bodied wagon you will need a punch wth a concave tip to spread the rivet end out over the plastic.
    Note, if you prefer, you can do the whole proceedure upside down i.e lock the punch in the vice, rest the shaft of the rivet on the punch and,
    holding the rod between your 1st and 2nd fingers, strike it on the base of the rivet.    
9. If you do not have a long enough rivet, you can secure the rivet coupling assembly with a drop of Loctite.
   This must be put into the rivet hole with the item base up and take care to wipe any excess from the coupling pivot area before you insert the coupling/rivet assembly into the rivet hole.
   If you use this method, leave the item base up until the Loctite has completely set. If you don't you will have a non-pivoting coupling! 
   I hope this helps.
   Kind regards,
   HDMR3864   

A3 CONTROLLER

Anyone have a circuit diagram for a Dublo A3 controller?
Pictures of what goes where inside the unit would be good too.
Can you get parts and from where.

ELEVATED TRACK

OK, if the steepest grade for real railways is 30:1 then in dublo land a 3" rise would need a 90" riser.
this can be difficult on a small layout so what have you done? How steep can your dublo go?
reply to dublo@iinet.net.au

Re the gradient issue you may not remember seeing the one on my layout but it is very gradual - about 1 in 60.
Martin I

HORNBY AT THE NOARLUNGA MODEL RAILROADERS EXHIBITION

So much on a 6' x 4', Bernie D, of SA displays both 2 and 3 rail